Raymond Chan Wine Reviews
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Akitu 2014 Central Otago ‘A1’ and ‘A2’ Pinot Noir
2014 sees the third vintage release of Andrew Donaldson’s ‘Akitu’ Central Otago Pinot Noirs. From the 2012 and 2013 vintages, it is clear this is a label to watch. (Click here to see my reviews of the 2013s.) Andrew established 12 ha of Pinot Noir in 2002 and 2003, planting 45,000 vines over 6 clones and 2 rootstocks on Maxwell Road, Mt Barker, near Wanaka, with the consultancy advice of Dr Dave Jordan. He then contracted the talented PJ Charteris as his winemaker, using the nearby Maude facility. Being based in the U’K’, Andrew has Steve Blackmore as his vineyard manager. Andrew’s brother Scott looks after the administration. The structure obviously works well! Here are my reviews of the more complex ‘A1’ and relatively more fruit-focussed ‘A2’ Pinot Noir blends from 2014. www.akitu.co.nz
Akitu ‘A1’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014 *****
Full, dark, deep ruby-red colour with slight purple hues, lighter on edge. This has a full and voluminous nose with ethereal aromas of ripe black berried fruit, black and violet floral perfumes, along with earthy and mineral elements, all harmoniously entwined with savoury, stalky whole bunch complexities. The aromatics are refined in expression, and unfold to reveal a concentrated heart. Medium-full bodied, the fruit is sweet and succulently ripe, with a tight core of black cherry and berry fruits integrated with liquorice elements, whole bunch stalk notes and ethereal violet florals. Very fine-grained tannins provide an elegantly proportioned structure and grip, and the mouthfeel is enlivened by fresh, lacy acidity. Subtle and complex nuances of earth and minerals emerge to add detail and the wine leads to a long, succulently sweet, lingering finish. This is an elegant, tight and refined, black fruited Pinot Noir with richness, fine textures and whole bunch complexities. Match with wild pork, rabbit or hare over the next 6-8 years. A blend of 71% Abel, 17% clone 5 and 11% 115, fermented with 28% whole clusters to 14.5% alc., the wine aged 10 months in 24% new French oak. 19.0-/20 Sep 2015 RRP $47.50
Akitu ‘A2’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014 *****
Full, even, dark ruby-red colour with slight purple hues, a little lighter on the rim. The nose is full, powerful and well-concentrated with aromas of black cherry and berry fruit harmoniously entwined with dark herbs, spices, liquorice and subtle stalk and minerally whole bunch complexities. Medium-full bodied, the palate is elegantly concentrated with flavours of black cherries and dark red berry fruits, along with nuances of thyme herbs, whole bunch stalk elements and black minerals, with hints of reductive complexities. The fruit is underlined by fine-grained tannin extraction and soft acidity, and the wine follows a smooth-textured line that carries the flavours to a long. lingering finish of black cherry fruit and minerals. This is an elegantly concentrated, black cherry-fruited Pinot Noir with subtle whole cluster stalk and herbal complexities, and a smooth, finely structured mouthfeel. Match with lamb, beef and venison over the next 5-6+ years. A blend of 36% ‘Block F’ (clones 5, 115 and 667), 28% clone 5, 20% Abel and 16% 115, fermented with 20% whole bunches to 14.5% alc., the wine aged 10 months in 5% new French oak. 18.5/20 Sep 2015 RRP $29.99